Umm Qais

Spent a fascinating day looking through the ruins at Umm Qais. The day included lunch on the terrace with a view of the Golan Heights, Israel, and the Sea of Galilee. The only negative was distant “thuds” from Syria.

I’m including one photo of the ruins to give a feel for the place – a picture of a black basalt column with two marble pillars in the distance. Umm Qais is a fascinating combination of black basalt and white limestone and marble that creates a unique mosaic feel. But mostly I’m taking pictures of the vegetation. This is the end of the rainy season, and everything is green and in bloom – including cactus and thistles. Not what most people expect when they think of Jordan.Jordan 18 Apr 082Jordan 18 Apr 020 Jordan 18 Apr 005 Jordan 17 Apr 026 Jordan 17 Apr 023

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Sheikh Duncan

We had a drink tonight at the British Club in Amman. Ironically, the only hint that we were in the right place was a sign on the street saying “Not Parking for the British Club”. This is one of those things that really makes you stop and think.

We had a good first day in Jordan seeing the usual sights – the amphitheater, the citadel – and a trip just outside the city to Wadi Seer and the castle Qasr Iraq El-Amir. We added in a wonderful Falafel Sandwich for lunch and a brief shopping trip at a local souk. Duncan picked up a Keffiyeh and was kind enough to model it for us. Very stylish. Tomorrow it’s off to Umm Qais for another day wandering through the ruins. Fascinating! Well, I think it is anyway…

Jordan 17 Apr 093

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The Zen of Travel

I love travel. The bustle of the airport, the anticipation of the departure lounge, the caress of economy seating. Obviously I’m lying. Discovering new countries is exciting. The process of getting there; not so much. I often wonder if we had the right idea a century ago. The pain of travel was still there, but spread over the days or weeks of the journey. Today, it’s compressed into the space of hours. And concentrated pain, just like electric shocks or nuclear waste, can be deadly. On the other hand, when sufficiently diluted, all things fade to background levels.

A few simple travel rules make all the difference. Start by embracing the “Zen of travel”, and practicing “acceptance”. Some things are under your control; some are not. You control the beginning of your journey; packing, bringing your passport, and arriving at the gate on time. But once you place your fate in the hands of an airline, everything changes. So when something goes wrong, as it invariably will, it’s important to first ask yourself “whose problem is this anyway?” In the unlikely event that it is your problem to solve, act quickly and decisively. Otherwise, find out who does own the problem and politely but firmly, hand it to them. Then be calm and patient. It’s called the “Zen of travel” for a reason.

Once you understand this, flying becomes much easier. Hardly pleasant, but certainly tolerable. Perhaps with even a hint of beauty, if you know where to look and what to avoid.

It doesn’t really have anything to do with flying, but somehow this picture fits. It captures the fine line between beauty and pain, showing that a little distance can make all the difference.

Cactus in Flower

Cactus in Flower

Postscript: For those interested in actual details, we are waiting (patiently) in Paris CDG for the final flight of our journey to Jordan. The first “flight” was a bus from the Ottawa train station to Montreal airport. When we tried to check-in at the airport, the machine refused, telling us to see an agent. But the guard wouldn’t let us through to talk to an agent until we had a boarding pass from the machine – the same machine that refused to issue a boarding pass, and instructed us to talk to an agent. I handed the problem to the guard, and pondered enlightenment.

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T Minus Zero

About to depart. Almost packed.

More updates to follow.

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Not What it Seems

One thing I love about travel is figuring out how things work. You are constantly exposed to new people, new ideas and new puzzles. After a while, you get a pretty good idea of what’s going on. But other times, you discover that you really are as clueless as you look.

Let me explain.

Last year while hiking down Wadi Dana we came across a flock of sheep, and were amused to see one of them standing in the only shade anywhere to be found – beside the shepherd’s donkey.

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It was a warm day. For someone sporting a thick coat of wool, it had to be a lot warmer. It was pretty clear this was one clever sheep, getting out of the sun any way she could. Or so we thought.

Later we were telling the story to Jamal. He laughed, and then explained. The shepherd takes one special lamb and pairs it with the donkey. Eventually, as the lamb grows older, she bonds and gets to the point where she never leaves the donkey’s side. Then, the shepherd places a bell around the sheep’s neck. So when the shepherd moves the flock, the special sheep with the bell follows the donkey, and all the other sheep follow the bell. Meanwhile, the shepherd knows they are all following him, because he’s riding the donkey. Brilliant in its simplicity. And of course, if it hadn’t been for Jamal explaining what was really going on, we would have completely missed it.

One small lesson learned. So many more to come.

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Not What I Expected

I woke up yesterday to find ten centimeters of snow, slush and ice pellets in my driveway. Spring may be here in theory, but in practice it still looks far too much like winter. But in three days we will be on our way to Jordan, where the weather is distinctly summer-like.  The only drifts that I want to see are sand dunes like these in Wadi Rum.Jordan-049

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Jamal’s Favourite Landmark

Some pictures really don’t need an explanation.Jordan-052

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Wine Sippy Cup – Part II

My earlier report of a new tradition in the Jordanian expat community has generated a bit of interest. In case you haven’t been following this blog, I reported that people have been seen riding camels through the desert, drinking wine from sippy cups. My sources assure me these were “traditional” sippy cups – the kind that toddlers use to drink juice. But I discovered, thanks to “Grapefriend”, that you can actually get a proper WINE SIPPY CUP. I realize that “proper” may be a bit of a stretch here, but check it out for yourself. This new information puts the whole idea of drinking wine on a camel into a new perspective. (Alysia, what kind of wine goes best with camel riding anyway?)

Which brings us back to preparing for my upcoming trip to Jordan. Armed with this new information, my mission is to find a WINE SIPPY CUP before I arrive in Jordan. I only have four days left, so I’m not holding out too much hope, but I’m going to try. If I succeed, I’ll be sure to provide a picture for you. (Actually, I’ll probably provide a picture even if I don’t succeed.)

And now for something completely different. I have to confess that every time I think of someone riding a camel through the desert, drinking wine … from a sippy cup, only one thing comes to mind. “You must cut down the mightiest tree in the forest … with a herring.”

This picture from Wadi Dana isn’t exactly the mightiest tree in the forest – well, actually, it probably was the mightiest tree around, though it wasn’t much of a forest. But it did provide a wonderful silhouette for the setting sun.

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The Countdown Continues

Only five days till we depart for Jordan. Trying hard to be patient and stay focused on everything that needs to be finished before I leave. Mostly succeeding.

I’ll leave you with this picture from Petra. The rather stoic looking donkey provides my inspiration: patient, focused, ready. I almost added “asleep” but somehow that doesn’t convey quite the right image. It’s difficult to imagine how a donkey can stand so patiently, until you realize the alternative is carrying tourists up and down the 800 stone steps to the “Monastery” at Petra. Sort of puts things into perspective.

On the steps to the Monastery in Petra

On the steps to the Monastery in Petra

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Ride a Camel through the Desert, Drinking Wine

True story!

In some of the more eccentric expat circles in Jordan, a new tradition has taken hold. Visitors are enjoying a glass of wine, while riding a camel through the desert. If you have ever ridden a camel, you know they don’t exactly provide a stable platform for enjoying a glass of wine. A certain amount of ingenuity was required, but eventually, a workable solution was devised. And that’s why you may see someone riding a camel through the desert, drinking wine … from a sippy cup. I kid you not.

This is a recent tradition, so I didn’t see it on my last trip. But I did see camels, and they are stubborn. In this picture, you can almost imagine the camel thinking “Seriously?  A sippy cup?”IMG_3343-copy_edited-1

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