Cathedral Cove

One of the things we really wanted to do on this visit to Whitianga was to take a boat tour to Cathedral Cove. Fortunately we didn’t book the tour for yesterday – it would have been very wet. Today was a much better day.

The Coromandel coast is loaded with stunning views, so I had a very difficult job whittling down the pictures today. Probably still too many, but it was the best I could do. I’ll open with a picture of Shakespeare Cliff. This area was one of the first places Captain Cook visited in New Zealand, and he apparently thought that this cliff looked like Shakespeare. Look for a nose, mouth, and full beard. Until recently, there was also a “hat” jutting out at the top. See if you can spot the resemblance. (Our guide thought that Captain Cook may have had a bit too much rum that day, but you can decide for yourself.)

Shakespeare Cliff

This next formation is technically a blowhole, though it is so large that it would need a tsunami to actually create a water spout. Still, it is interesting.

Blowhole rock formation

Next up, Cathedral Cove. I’ll let the picture speak for itself.

Cathedral Cove

And right beside Cathedral Cove, we have the sleeping dragon. The dragon’s eye is just to the left of the green patch, and the nostrils are near the sea. Can you see it? Maybe everyone around here likes rum?

Sleeping Dragon

We didn’t see a lot of wildlife on the tour, but we did see a large grouping of White Chested Terns on a rock near Cathedral Cove.

White Chested Terns

We saw several sea caves on the tour, including this one that is in the early stage of development. Over time this will grow until it will create another cathedral. Look for the spot where you can see the sea on the other side.

Next we visited a much larger sea cave. This one was so large that the boat could go completely inside.

Inside a Sea Cave

Surprisingly, there were schools of fish inside the cave. We think they were snapper.

Fish inside the cave

While we were in the cave, some of us were wondering (and by “some of us” I mean “Jan”) why these caves form. After we were safely out of the cave, our guide told us that these caves are on a fault line that creates a weak point. Over time this is eroded by the sea until a cave forms. Sure enough, when we looked at the cave from the outside, it was obvious. So we had just been inside an inherently unstable structure. Yikes!

Fault lines…

There were many other interesting caves carved into the cliffs along the sea, such as this one.

Another sea cave

It’s hard to see in the first photo, but if you zoom in, you can see an interesting rock formation inside the cave, called “the snake’s head”. You can probably see why. Much easier to see than Shakespeare.

The snake

Most of the cliffs along the coast were ash and pumice from a volcanic eruption (long ago) about ten miles inland. But later, we saw areas with lava from later eruptions. It created interesting rock formations like these. If you look closely, you can see folds in the rock.

Further along there was a lava tube, where the lava on the outside hardened, but the lava inside was still soft enough to flow, creating a hollow tube. You can see it on the left half of this next picture. The right half was a giant blow hole until quite recently. In the past, tour boats would go inside and suddenly see the sky. Unfortunately the arch has since collapsed.

Lava tube

The tour is definitely worth a trip. I highly recommend it.

On our way back to our room, I stopped by the local grocery store, looking for another interesting New Zealand beer, and I came across this one. I’ve been trying to avoid thinking about world politics on this trip, but sometimes it’s impossible to miss what the locals are thinking.

The beer was tasty
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This is More Like It!

Whitianga

I’m not sure if this is someone’s message to their valentine, or to New Zealand. Either one works!

Beach Art
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Enough Already!

Yesterday’s forecast was for periods of heavy rain, but what we actually had was more like a light drizzle off and on throughout the day. We still took it easy, going for a short walk to check out the beach, but otherwise relaxing in the apartment and enjoying our private hot tub. And packing for today’s drive to Whitianga.

The forecast said the rain would be largely over by this morning. It was wrong. The heavy rain forecast for yesterday arrived today, and lasted for the full duration of our drive. The roads in the Coromandel are narrow and winding, along the edge of steep cliffs. We saw regular evidence of slips that had closed the roads after the last heavy rain. It was not a relaxing drive! But we arrived safely, and then the rain stopped … shortly after we brought our luggage into the room, of course.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. As we were leaving Waihi Beach, we passed a local Saturday farmer’s market, and decided to check it out. Fortunately it was indoors, as the rain was starting to get heavy. The market was small, but well worth a visit. We chatted with the very friendly locals as we decided what to buy.

Waihi Beach Farmer’s Market

We couldn’t resist the local avocados – six avocados for $5 NZD.

Local avocados

We are staying in a small house in Whitianga, and coincidentally there is an avocado tree in the garden. Unfortunately, not for us to pick.

Avocado tree

Here is another tree in the garden.

Guava tree

I’ve discovered a new brewer in New Zealand that is fast becoming my favourite New Zealand brewery. I’m sampling another of their excellent beers as I write this.

Yummy
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Four Pictures, No Words…

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Rain Day … Sort Of

Into every life a little rain must fall. Even in New Zealand. We did get rain today, it was just a sprinkle here and there, but it still wasn’t an inviting day to head outside.

Rainy day in Waihi Beach

So we decided to have a quiet day, exploring the shops near our hotel and relaxing inside. But eventually we couldn’t ignore the beach calling us and we headed for the sand. We saw a different side of New Zealand beaches today. The waves were coming right up to the rocks, and you had to keep an eye out or you were going to get wet.

And it wasn’t even high tide!

We also saw a different side of New Zealand temperatures. One thing we have always noticed is that it feels far warmer here than the actual temperature suggests. Heather suggested this is because of the ozone hole and the higher UV readings here. Sounds plausible. But that wasn’t the case today. The temperature was 23C, with a stiff breeze, and it felt like 23C, or maybe even a little cooler. We dressed up for our beach walk. A first!

This feels rather chilly …

We started walking, and thought we were okay, but then a big wave rolled in and we had to jump up on a rock to avoid getting wet.

We pressed on, and enjoyed our daily stroll along the beach, keeping an eye open for the next wave.

Timing is everything

On our way back to the hotel, we passed a large house under construction along the beach. It’s rather cool – the house is basically shrink wrapped while they work on the inside.

House under construction

We even briefly considered the houses for sale in Waihi Beach…

But we decided to pass, because it wasn’t Ohope Beach. For the record, that isn’t the only reason we decided to pass.

The weather for tomorrow looks similar to today, so Jan was thinking about projects. She brought her travel-size water colours, so she was looking for potential subjects, and the shells along the beach seemed perfect. Here are two pictures with the same group of shells. One is arranged by the mathematician, and the other by the artist. See if you can figure out which is which.

Just across the road from out hotel, there is a lovely little restaurant called The Secret Garden, though not the same as our secret garden at home. It describes itself as a food truck with seating. It has Neopolitan style wood-fired pizza and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wine. We tried both, and were very impressed. It was the perfect end to a slow day.

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The Best Laid Plans…

Last year we stopped in Waihi and made the short drive to Waihi Beach for the afternoon. We found the perfect spot to set up our beach chairs, read our books, watch the sea, and listen to the crashing surf. We fell in love with that beach. I said it was my favourite beach in New Zealand (a very high bar) and we decided for this trip to stay right in the small town of Waihi Beach. High on my list of “must do” things was returning to that exact spot on the beach.

When I went out to get our flat white coffees this morning, I was a little concerned that it would be too cool to sit on the beach. I know that our friends in Canada are rolling their eyes right now at my suggestion that it is “too cool” and I’m sure I hear the sound of tiny violins playing in the distance. Fortunately, by the time we finished lunch from the local bakery, it had warmed up and we headed to the beach on schedule. This is the view from the spot we were headed for.

I knew there was a lovely hiking trail that started right by the spot we sat last year, so we decided to hike the trail, then come back and relax and read on the beach. But we encountered one tiny problem. The best laid plans… Last year when we were here, the tide was out. This year it was in, and to get to the start of the trail, we had to do this…

Shoes off…

But we’re tough. We didn’t let a little bit of warm ocean water discourage us. After wading through the surf, drying our feet, and putting on our shoes, the trail was right there.

The start of the trail

Starting from the beach, the trail went up. I mean, where else would it go? On one side was a steep hill, on the other, a sheer drop off to the ocean. Fortunately the path was mostly in the shade, with a cool breeze. It was perfect.

The hiking trail

There were stunning views at regular intervals along the trail.

View from the trail

There were even a few opportunities for pictures that look very dangerous … but really are perfectly safe. Like this one.

You really want me to go back just a little bit further???

I’ve been talking about how lovely this beach is. Here is the view looking back to Waihi Beach, to give you an idea.

The view of the beach at Waihi Beach

This morning it was cool (I know, I know…) and overcast, but by this afternoon on the hike it had warmed considerably, and we were treated to beautiful blue skies.

Blue skies…

We were feeling rather adventurous today, so we even decided to take a selfie. I suck at selfies, but the ocean in the background helps.

And just in case the selfie was a disaster, we took pictures of each of us to prove we were here. First up, Jan, looking relaxed and gorgeous as always.

Take the damn picture, already!

And here is a picture of me, with that look I get when I see another view that would make a perfect picture for the blog.

Ohhh … I could use a picture of this in the blog

Then it was back to the beach to read and cool down.

Reading on the beach

It was late afternoon, so the kids were out of school and playing in the ocean.

Kids at play

There was a stiff breeze, so before long, we found it too cool in the shade, so it was time for our daily barefoot walk along the beach.

Walking along the beach … again.

Then it was back to the hotel for a quick shower to wash off the salt and sweat before refreshments on the balcony. Our hotel is a great spot with a half dozen restaurants within a two minute walk. We opted for a take away kebab salad tonight. Yummy.

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Serendipity

We checked out of our hotel in Ohope today and drove to Waihi Beach. Another day, another beach! We really only have one complaint about our stay in Ohope. We should have stayed longer. Much longer. Next time, we will.

My morning walk for coffee is usually just the price I pay to have a morning latte … or now a morning flat white. But in Ohope, it sets the tone for the day. Here is the view from the path to the coffee shop.

The view on the walk to get coffee

Along the way, I’m treated to flowers in bloom.

…and giant succulents that look like house plants at home.

Agave plant (I think)

Our drive to Waihi Beach took us past Mount Maunganui. We stayed in The Mount on both of our previous trips to New Zealand, but this year we decided to give it a pass. Too many interesting places to see in New Zealand. But it was a short drive today and we had time to kill before we could check into our hotel, so we decided to stop in Mount Maunganui for lunch. We were early so we took a stroll along the boardwalk, with The Mount in the background.

Mount Maunganui

There is a lovely cafe, The General, right across the street from the hotel we stayed at on our previous visits. In fact, it’s where I went for our morning latte, and we knew it also had great lunches. Larry and Heather (friends we met on a river cruise, and joined us in Abruzzo last fall) had been in Mount Maunganui, but we were pretty sure they had already left. But just in case, we sent them a WhatsApp letting them know that we were in The Mount. Within a minute we learned they were still in town and they joined us for lunch.

What is the significance of 19B???

We will be seeing them again in Paihia in about ten days, but it was lovely to catch up. Small world.

Then it was off to Waihi Beach, and after unpacking … you guessed it … another walk on the beach.

Waihi Beach

I spotted a few bits of seaweed washed up on the beach. Nothing like last year, but still worth a photo or two … or three.

I’m writing this on the balcony, enjoying another Old Peculier. The view isn’t as nice as in Ohope, but I’m not sure we will ever find another one that nice. We’re getting regular reports from friends and family about the weather in Ottawa – cold, and I do mean cold, with windchill of minus 35C, and snow. Every now and then Jan wonders if we should go somewhere else rather than returning to New Zealand again and again. And every time, I just stare blankly and ask “why???”.

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Ohope Beach

Another day in paradise! No need for more pictures or words, so I’ll close this post here!.

Just kidding. Of course I’m going to post more. All of the places that we’ve stayed in have coffee in the room, but we prefer lattes so a morning walk to the nearest coffee shop is part of my daily routine. I’ve noticed that most people in New Zealand order a flat white, rather than a latte, so we decided to give it a try. It is close to a latte, but it has more espresso flavor, which is nice. We’re going to try it for the rest of this trip. This is the view on this morning’s walk, passing a 150 year old Pohutukawa tree.

Pohutukawa tree in the park

After breakfast, coffee (flat white) and our puzzles, it was time for another walk along the beach. We saw something new today.

Crab stranded on the beach

Yesterday we walked one direction, so today we tried the other direction. We made it to one end of the beach.

No more beach … this direction

The water was warm enough to swim, and we were tempted, but in the end we settled for wading.

Wading in the ocean

We’re took it easy today and just enjoyed the ocean and the lovely beach. But I also wanted to do a little walking, so I hiked the Fairbrother Trail again today. It was much later in the day, and not nearly as hot as when we hiked it yesterday.

Fairbrother Trail in the early evening

And then … you can probably guess where this is going … it was time to “relax and recover” from all the excitement of the day.

Winding down

Tomorrow we head to Waihi Beach, hopefully for more of the same.

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And a Slow Finish…

The day had a slow start, and it finished the same way. As the day was winding down, we headed down to the beach with our beach chairs and our books for a quiet end of the day.

Reading on the beach

But I’m getting ahead of myself. After a slow start and a light lunch, we decided it was time for some exercise. There are several well marked trails in the area, as is usually the case in New Zealand. We settled on the “moderate” Fairbrother Loop trail, starting just a few hundred meters from our hotel. The trail took us through a nature preserve, with a thick forest canopy protecting us from the afternoon sun.

Forest canopy

There is a steep hill just behind Ohope, and the trail took us up. Fortunately the trail was well maintained, and the path wasn’t too steep.

The Fairbrother Loop trail

The trail was manageable, but it did take us up, and then up some more. Near the top we had a view of White Island. When we visited the thermal wonderland in Rotorua, we learned that White Island, is an active volcano, and is at one end of the Taupo volcanic zone. You can see why it is called White Island – it almost looks like it is snow capped, but it’s smoke from the volcano.

White Island

On our Zealandia tour, we learned about the Kawakawa plant, which has medicinal properties. Apparently the settlers noticed that bugs loved to eat the leaves, so they concluded that the leaves must be good for you. Interesting logic, but it caught on, and the leaves are used in various teas. We bought some at Zealandia and I’ve been enjoying it nightly. Here is the Kawakawa plant, with many holes in the leaves.

Kawakawa tree

While we were walking the trail, we were keeping an eye open for birds. We saw several birds, and managed to identify some of them. This is the North Island Robin … we think.

North Island Robin

Which brings us back to our relaxing read on the beach. I was tempted to go for a swim, but settled for briefly wading through the surf.

Testing the water…

And then it was back to our room to enjoy a drink on the balcony before walking over to the local Mexican restaurant for dinner.

Drinks on the balcony

That wasn’t quite the end of the day. After dinner, I sat down to blog about the day, listening to the surf and enjoying a goodnight beer.

Wrapping up the day

Tomorrow … more of the same.

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A Slow Start

At home, we like to have a slow start to our day, enjoying a latte as we work through our morning puzzles. When we travel, we usually need to get going a little faster than we’d like. But sometimes we can start the day exactly the way we like.

Perfect morning

With this view, the sound of the surf, and a cool ocean breeze, there’s no reason to rush.

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