Our group was staying at various hotels in and around Rome. The drive from Rome to Abruzzo took us across the spine of Italy, with stunning mountain view’s.
We arrived at the Amazing Abruzzo this afternoon and received an introduction to the estate and the grounds.
Gardens at the estate
We learned that the Baron’s Estate was built by a medieval baron with the concession for bricks and mortar in Abruzzo. Anyone buying or selling bricks in the area had to buy them from the baron. If you were caught selling bricks that weren’t supplied by the baron you would be killed. Different times. This is the smokestack from the original brick kiln.
After checking into our rooms, we gathered in the common areas for snacks … and drinks, of course.
Pre-dinner Gathering
After an introduction to our activities for the week it was time for dinner.
Today’s menu
For those who want a wine upgrade, there are an impressive array of options.
Wine selection
The dinning room table was set up to seat the entire group of 15 people. The conversation at dinner was lively.
Salute
After a fabulous dinner we were treated to an impressive array of local liqueurs. We had fun tasting and comparing the various offerings. One digestif had 100 local herbs, but also had 70% alcohol. Lisa decided to give it a try, but wasn’t impressed.
Tomorrow’s tour is Gastronomy Abruzzese Style. Stay tuned.
The Amazing Abruzzo is an all inclusive Italian resort – a chance to experience authentic Italy. It was started by an Ottawa couple who made a career change about a decade ago. They purchased an old villa in Abruzzo Italy, in part because of family connections in the area. The idea was to open a B&B, but first the property needed extensive renovations. It turned into a bit of an adventure, which they documented with regular articles in the Ottawa Citizen newspaper. When the renovations were finished, it opened as a typical B&B, with optional tours around the local area. The regular updates in the Ottawa Citizen newspaper had generated interest before it even opened, and it quickly became so popular that it transitioned to an all inclusive villa offering week-long stays.
As the popularity continued to grow, they purchased another property in the area – the Baron’s Estate – and embarked on another major renovation project. About this time, one of our friends suggested that it might be fun to coordinate a group booking for the entire estate for a week. And that is how 11 of us from Ottawa, plus two couples we met on our Danube river cruise in 2023, booked The Baron’s Estate for next week. This was arranged in the spring of 2024, while the estate was still under renovation.
We all made independent travel arrangements, so for the past three weeks we’ve been following different paths – Lisbon, Porto, Algarve, Northern Italy, Rome – but tomorrow all paths will converge on Abruzzo.
I’m hoping to continue providing regular updates for the next week, so stay tuned.
We were sitting on a park bench late this afternoon, enjoying the cool breeze and a panoramic view of Lisbon when Jan said “we should have done something more today”. My response … “why”?
What did I mean? Let’s start with how we spent our day. Mostly, we wandered the streets of the Chiado district in Lisbon enjoying views like this…
What goes down, must come up…
Why do I say we “enjoyed” this view? The steps leading down are clear, but if you look closely you’ll see at the other end of the street the steps are heading right back up. We enjoyed it because we were walking along the top and didn’t have to navigate those steps. Though to be fair, we still took quite a few steps along the way.
We were also treated to many patterns in the sidewalks.
Why have a simple sidewalk when you could have this instead?
While wandering the streets, we spotted the coffee shop with the best view in Lisbon. We enjoyed the view (we didn’t need a coffee) and went on to investigate local shops with cork products. By then it was time for lunch at a lovely small restaurant we discovered when we were here last year. After lunch it was time to … continue wandering the road to nowhere in particular. You find all kinds of interesting things on that road.
A hundred and fifty year old cypress tree
This impressive cypress tree was planted when the Principe Real Garden was opened in 1869. It’s a small garden but it was very pleasant to stroll through while live jazz played in the outdoor cafe.
Silk Floss Tree in bloom
Then it was time to start back home past this impressive driveway for staff at the museum.
Before long we came to another small park with one of Lisbon’s many lookouts. We took a few minutes to enjoy the lovely weather and the view of Lisbon. I zoomed in to take a picture of these umbrella pines.
Umbrella Pines
This next picture shows what it looked like to the naked eye.
Umbrella Pines … in context
Jan took the next picture that includes old and new – everything from the 11th-century Moorish castle, to a cathedral, to modern construction cranes.
Old and new
Which brings us back to the beginning of this post, and the end of our day, sitting on a park bench, in the cool breeze, enjoying views of Lisbon.
A perfect end to the day
Actually, not quite the end of the day. For our last evening in Lisbon, Jan found a highly rated restaurant that turned out to be right around the corner from our hotel. We treated ourselves to a lovely, decadent meal along with a fabulous Portuguese wine before taking a very short stroll back to our hotel to pack for the trip to Rome tomorrow.
We spent a few days in Lisbon to enjoy ourselves while adjusting to European time. We had a fabulous time, even when it didn’t look like we were doing anything in particular. I call that something.
We aren’t obsessed with the “slow food” movement, but I think many of our eating habits align with the slow food idea. I’ve never heard of a “slow tourism” movement, but if one starts, we will be the first to join.
This is our second week-long trip to Lisbon, and we have yet to visit Sintra. Everyone says it’s a must-see, and every guide book has it in Lisbon’s top ten list. And yet … we’ve been busy, taking it slow. Today we finally decided it was time.
Unfortunately Sintra isn’t just one thing that you can “visit” and check off your list. There are nearly a dozen interesting buildings and gardens all set in a stunning mountain landscape connected by very narrow winding roads. But when we set out this morning, we didn’t know any of that. We just wanted to spend the day getting a feel for Sintra. I joked that our goal was to figure out what we really should see … in other words, determine what we should do the next time we visit.
Peña Palace – Sintra
We started with Peña Palace, but only after an “exciting” half-hour bus ride from the Sintra train station. If we had wanted to tour the inside of the palace, it would have meant a two-hour wait, massive crowds and waiting in the hot sun. Fortunately we weren’t interested. The outside of the palace was impressive in its own right, and more than enough to satisfy our curiosity. We wanted to see the gardens instead, which were lush, cool, and mostly empty.
Peña Palace gardens
This also provided lots of side quests for Jim to explore and then “explain” to Jan. Such fun.
This is fascinating. It’s where they …
Interesting trees along the path. Not exactly straight…
Not your usual branches
And of course, flowers. These are morning glory flowers, beautiful but frequently also invasive.
Morning Glory
Jan spotted a derelict spider web. The only things it was catching these days were dead leaves and the afternoon sun.
Abandoned spider web
We were feeling refreshed after enjoying the cool and quiet paths, so we decided it was time for more of a challenge. A hike to the high cross, at the highest point in the Sintra Hills (529m) seemed like a good idea (at the time). The path was well marked, but steep, and more than once we asked “are we almost there”?
A pilgrimage of sorts
And then, we were there. The cross was … a cross … but the views of the Atlantic to the west and Lisbon to the east were well worth the trek.
The High Cross
The thing that interested me more than the cross, was the butterflies.
Swallowtail butterfly
This next one is an excellent example of camouflage. Look closely, or you might miss it.
Wall Brown butterfly
Then Jan spotted a sweet chestnut shell.
Sweet chestnut shell
The gardens also had a number of fountains and water reservoirs to collect water for the gardens. This picture gives you a sense of what you can see.
Fountain
We definitely enjoyed our quota of forest bathing for the day. But when we went to see the high cross we had more sun, and more exertion. When Jan spotted a cool rock face she couldn’t resist using it to cool down.
It was a simple plan. Start the day at the coffee shop with the best view in Lisbon, have lunch at Time Out, and finish with a sunset cruise.
The sign says it all
We had an early start (for us) and walked down (and up) the narrow streets to the coffee shop Fernando had recommended, not because it had the best coffee … he said they were all the same, but because it had the best view. The walk there was also pretty interesting.
Reminded us of Italy…
This was the view from our outdoor table – it fully met our expectations. The coffee was pretty good too.
Morning coffee with a view
The nearby square had a very unusual sculpture. There has to be a story here, but I have no idea what it is. If anyone knows, please do tell.
This looks … interesting
Because we had such an early start (again, for us) we had time to kill before lunch. We investigated options for taking the train to the evening boat tour (we’re starting to figure things out) and then walked along the river. The cool breeze was lovely, and there was some interesting, if transient, art here as well.
Probably a story here too…
Then we were ready for lunch at Time Out, the Lisbon foodie market. Even at two o’clock, it was very busy and we were concerned we wouldn’t find a seat. We’d already ordered our food, so yeah, we were more than a little worried. But with a little luck, patience, and inspired seat swaps, we ended up in the perfect spot.
We had wine too…
We limited ourselves to one item, plus wine and gelato of course, but if we ever come back to Lisbon with friends (I’m looking at you J and big G) it would be a hoot to snag seating for four, grab glasses of wine, and then take turns selecting plates to share while sipping Portuguese wine. It would make for a fun and very tasty afternoon. Mark it in your calendar.
After a short rest, it was time for the sunset cruise. Jan noted that the last time she was on a sail boat was before we were married, a very long time ago. So I include this picture to prove that not only did she willingly go sailing, she enjoyed it.
Sailor Jan
We’ve been told that many monuments along Lisbon’s waterfront are best viewed from the water, and this cruise proved the point. This next picture is the Monument to the Discoveries which is impressive when seen from land, but is clearly designed to be viewed from the water.
Monument to the Discoveries
There were only six passengers on the cruise, but it included another Canadian couple. Small world. We enjoyed a lovely rose wine and charcuterie board while sailing on the river and learning about local history. Before we knew it, the sun was setting.
Sunset on the Tagus
And just to prove we were really here…
Proof of Life
After sunset we returned to the harbour and then took the train back into town for a quiet evening writing this blog and enjoying more Portuguese wine.
We didn’t have any particular agenda for today. We included six days in Lisbon in our itinerary because 1) we really like Lisbon, 2) we’re starting to know our way around this part of the city, and 3) it seemed like the perfect place to get over jet lag. So today, our objective was to wander around enjoying the Lisbon ambiance and wonder what to do until it was time for beer club.
We did have one important housekeeping item (getting my European SIM card) but once that was done, we stopped for coffee in a pleasant outdoor square. I was thinking “latte” until I saw “espresso with gelato” on the menu, and decided I needed to check it out. It’s quite good – a little on the sweet side for me, but definitely worth trying.
Espresso with gelato (I’m not making that up)
One thing we often wonder about when traveling is where to have lunch. We spotted a pleasant outdoor cafe with an open table and I went for something with local character – sardines with potatoes. Again, really quite good.
Lunch
After lunch it was time to wander again, and of course, to wonder … what to have for lunch tomorrow. Last year we walked through Time Out, a giant food hall featuring local chefs. It was interesting, but overwhelming. We had another look today. The central court has seating for hundreds, with booths around the periphery showcasing local food and wine.
Time Out – Lisbon
Many booths highlight the chef and feature a different signature dish every day of the week.
Special of the day
We’ve penciled it in for a late lunch tomorrow. With tomorrow’s lunch taken care of, it was back to wandering. It was a warm day and the cool breeze coming off the water was wonderful. We headed along the river toward the city center and came across a small village of stones stacked and painted to look like people. One incorporated a basin for tips and the artist was collecting them as we walked past.
Stacked-stones art
Our wandering wasn’t completely random. While I was getting my local SIM card, Jan spotted a fabric store and (I know that some of you who know Jan will be shocked … shocked to hear this, but…) she checked it out. A couple of fabrics with local themes caught her eye and we were heading back for another look.
Fabric from Lisbon
The plan is to make place mats and a tote bag. I think they’ll look fantastic.
When we got back to our hotel it was beer o’clock, and I was anxious to check out the beer tasting menu I mentioned yesterday. The plan was to sit outside, but I was informed the beer tasting menu was only available when sitting at the bar. Serendipity strikes again. While enjoying our drinks, we were treated to a show watching the bartender prepare large seafood platters – not something that most bartenders do, but fascinating to watch. And the room was richly decorated with eighteenth century painted tiles by local artists. The building has been declared a Lisbon heritage site, and it clearly deserves the designation.
Beer Tasting at Trindade
The beer was excellent and the fish croquettes were fabulous. We ended up ordering two more (croquettes) as we enjoyed our drinks.
Beer tasting flight
I included this picture for those who might be interested in trying the beers. I’ve already recommended the Vienna lager to Stu, but all three were very well done. I interrupt this travel blog to bring you an interesting beer-geek digression: our local brewer is very negative about IBU (International Bitterness Units) as a meaningful measure of anything. All three of these beers were rated at 25 IBUs but an independent tasting expert (aka Jan) thought they had radically different bitterness levels. So there you have it. Proof that you should ignore IBU ratings.
Monday Beer Club
I’m closing with a picture of me pondering my beer with Jan’s vino verde in the picture, and behind me a tiny hint of the tile work that adorned the walls.
I think that wandering and wondering is an excellent strategy. We highly recommend it.
Sitting in Toronto airport last night, watching our departure time slowly creep later, we began to worry the flight would be cancelled because they couldn’t fix the problem. Turns out this was a legitimate concern – they couldn’t fix the problem, but fortunately they found a replacement aircraft. We pushed away from the gate about two hours late, but the pilots pushed the throttle forward a notch and we were only an hour and a half late when we landed. The good news was we gained lost time. The bad news … we lost half an hour of potential sleep. Every silver lining has a cloud.
Our room was ready when we arrived at the hotel. We checked in, unpacked, and visited the grocery store to get tomorrow’s breakfast and tonight’s wine. Priorities! Then we headed out for a walk to enjoy the lovely weather.
Pastel de nata
It had been a while since breakfast on the plane, and we were getting a bit peckish … in the danger zone for “hangry”. We spotted a shop with the local pastry, pastel de nata, so we bought a couple and headed across the street to the park to eat them and enjoy the view.
Castelo de S. Jorge – Lisbon
We didn’t have any particular agenda for today other than enjoying the Lisbon weather and vibe, and staying awake until bedtime. We strolled through an outdoor market at a local park and I spotted this tree. It almost reminded me of New Zealand.
One thing I love about Lisbon is the way that old and new naturally blend together. This is a vintage streetcar … with Wi-Fi.
Lisbon Streetcar
I was also looking for things to do later in the week, and this immediately caught my attention.
Monday Beer Club perhaps???
Tomorrow is Monday. On Monday we have Monday Beer Club and taste a variety of different beers. This was like a sign from God. I know what I’m doing tomorrow afternoon.
Our room is on the top floor of the building – only the 5th floor, but it still offers some views. Just after sunset, I saw this view from our window.
Dusk in Lisbon
My bed is calling, so I’m signing off for tonight.
The plan was a four hour layover in Toronto before our flight departed for Lisbon at 11:00 PM. It was ideal. Enough time for a relaxing dinner at the airport and then takeoff right around bedtime. It was a perfect plan. But as the saying goes, no plan survives first contact with the enemy.
It’s now 11:00 PM and we are definitely not on the plane getting ready to push back from the gate. After a series of messages pushing the departure time back in stages, we are currently scheduled for 2:00 AM. I suppose the good news is that it will be easier to sleep on the plane. The bad news is that I’m assuming there won’t be further delays or cancellations. Fingers crossed.
We checked our luggage, but not our patience or sense of humour, so we should be okay.
And just as I was about to post this, I received a message that our flight is now departing at 1:00 AM. On that note, I’m signing off before anything else changes and hoping for the best.
After we land tomorrow, I’ll let you know what actually happened.
I know, I know. I said this was a travel blog. It is, and it’s going to stay that way. But this is a cool story, and it’s also sort of a travel story, so here goes.
Back to the beginning. A few years ago we had a pizza party with friends, and I was rolling out the pizza crust with their rolling pin. It didn’t look special, but when I started rolling the dough, I immediately fell in love with it. The size, the weight, the feel in my hands, the taper … it was a joy to work with. Unfortunately it was unlike any rolling pin I’d ever seen before. It’s very close to straight, but it has a tiny taper toward the ends. So it mostly works like a standard rolling pin, but the taper allows you to put a little extra pressure on a precise point when you need it. I wanted one just like it.
Heather’s Grandma’s Rolling Pin
I learned that Heather had inherited it from her grandmother, so it was probably close to a hundred years old. Searching local stores, and even the internet drew a blank. And then I discovered a local woodworking shop that could do custom jobs. So I reached out via their website, and heard … absolutely nothing … for six months. I’d given up when I received an email saying they’d been very busy, but now had time for smaller jobs. When could I bring the original in for them to measure? I immediately replied offering several times, and then … radio silence. So I decided it was time for a road trip to have lunch in Perth (Ontario) and to knock on their door and ask if they could help me. And that is how I got my very own magic rolling pin.
Jim’s brand new rolling pin
On Saturday we fly to Lisbon, starting a much longer trip. But I’m still thrilled that my year-long quest for the perfect rolling pin was a success.
This is basically a travel blog. When we travel, I pretty much post every day. When we are at home, I rarely post. We prefer to stay home for the summer and enjoy the warm weather, which is why you haven’t heard from me in a while. But it’s less than two weeks until we head for Europe, so I thought I’d provide a short update … and use it as an excuse to dust off my posting skills.
We spent a lot of time at the beginning of the summer adding a new feature to our back garden. It proved to be a wonderful refuge during the hot days of summer.
The Secret Garden
The past few weeks haven’t been quite as hot, so we’ve been able to walk in the afternoon. We’re in the suburbs, but there are still a few opportunities to see birds, like these herons.
Summer is also a perfect opportunity for one of my favourite activities at our local brew pub – Monday Beer Club.
Blind tasting at BR
No post from me would be complete without at least one flower picture. This one is in our garden, providing a feast for the bees.
Bees enjoying the asters
We visited relatives last week, and enjoyed the fall colours on the 3-hour drive each way.
Fall colours
This is from our garden again, showing the bugbane. The wasps love it.
Bugbane
In ten days we’re on the road again, and I should be posting regularly.
If It Was Today... 