Kelheim

Our river cruise wasn’t able to start in Nuremberg. One of the canal locks was under repair, so we boarded in Kelheim. AMA Waterways took advantage of this change, and offered us an alternative tour – a boat ride through the Danube river gorge and a tour of a Benedictine monastery, established in the 7th century.

The church in the monastery is famous for its interior decorations. I try not to post many pictures of church interiors – they more or less all look the same – but I couldn’t resist this picture from the inside of the monastery. Not your usual altar…

But the real reason that I enjoy visiting monasteries is that they often brew very tasty beer.

As part of the tour, we were offered a pretzel and a glass of the abbey ale. I felt it would be an insult to the monks … and perhaps even to God? … if I refused to drink the beer. So even though it was before noon, I felt pressure to enjoy the beer. (It didn’t take all that much pressure, to be honest.)

A Religious Experience?

While walking on the tour, we spotted some of the local flora and fauna.

After lunch back on the boat, we took a hike up the hill to Liberation Hall, a monument celebration victory in the Napoleonic wars, and liberation of the Germanic Federation.

After hiking up the hill to the monument, we climbed up the narrow circular staircase to the top of the monument. It was a significant additional effort, but well worth it with stunning views of the inside of the monument, and of the Danube river.

And then it was back down the hill to the boat.

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Last Day in Nuremberg

We had a couple of hours to kill before boarding the river cruise, so … of course … we went for a walk around Nuremberg old city. All the stores were closed because it is Easter Monday, but there was a huge market in the square by the Beautiful Fountain, so we checked it out and even bought a few small items. We had a gelato too. It seemed the least we could do. And of course, we enjoyed the architecture, as we have done every other day here.

Spring is well underway here, and the magnolia trees are in full bloom.

The Grand Hotel had “bunny” art in the windows. No idea if these are a permanent installation, or a temporary exhibit to celebrate Easter. Maybe we’ll find out on our next visit.

I’ll leave you with a picture of a monument (apparently celebrating the end of the Napoleonic Wars) visible from the cruise ship. More to follow.

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Nuremberg Trials

It was a lovely sunny day in Nuremberg and about 13 degrees celsius – perfect for walking. Earlier in the week we had tried walking around the old city walls on the inside, and on the outside. I was surprised to discover that outside the walls, walking through the old moat, was far nicer. So we started our day by walking around the outside of the walls, stopping along the way to make a reservation for dinner at the restaurant we had enjoyed on the first night here.

City walls built in 1596
View from the moat outside the old city walls
An interesting repair to the city walls

The old moat around the city walls has effectively been turned into a park with walking/biking paths and community gardens. Lovely.

Somehow it seemed wrong to visit Nuremberg and not see the site of the Nuremberg Trials, so we walked out to the museum and spent the afternoon immersed in history. Not a light topic, but fascinating and well worth the time.

Room 600, site of the Nuremberg Trials

The walk to the museum took us along the river, with parks on either side. I could get used to this, and I suspect I’d be in far better shape if I could walk here every day.

After dinner, we treated ourselves to a final walk through the old city on the way back to our hotel. The cathedral was dark, but we could clearly hear organ music coming from inside. Very eerie.

I said it was a final walk through the old city, but that isn’t quite right. It may be the final walk for this visit, but we will be back.

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Another Day in Nuremberg

It was overcast and cool today. It rained overnight, but by the time we were up and about it was dry, but still cool. So we decided it was a museum day … because that is what we do. (To be completely honest, we probably would have gone to a museum even if it had been a beautiful day, but the weather helped.)

Sculpture outside the museum

And of course, on our way to the museum, we still got to appreciate the architecture of this beautiful city.

Yet another beautiful building in Nuremberg

We had an interesting experience at dinner tonight. We decided on the restaurant over drinks at the end of the day. It was too late to try to make a reservation, so we decided to just go with the flow. The place was packed, which is both a good sign (must be popular) and a bad sign (will we be able to get a table?). Fortunately they were able to squeeze us in. It’s becoming clear that tipping is not expected here, but it is appreciated. So when we settled up, to show my appreciation for finding a table for us (and for the fabulous meal), I added a modest tip. The moment we had finished paying, the server asked “Limoncello, or Grappa?”. As I said, tips are not expected, but they are definitely appreciated. The Grappa was on the house, and delicious.

Nuremberg Train Station

This is what all train stations should look like…

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Good Friday

It was Good Friday, and all the stores and museums in Nuremberg were closed today. So we walked around the walls of the old city, which are mostly still intact. We started by going just inside the walls and enjoying the architecture.

Decoration on a random building
A river runs through the center of Nuremberg
City walls, from the inside

And then, after lunch, we walked around the city again, on the outside this time. The path follows what was once the moat around the city.

City walls from the outside
The walls from the path along the moat

After a long day of walking, we had dinner at a small cafe along the river.

View from a bridge over the river
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Nuremberg

We spent the day wandering around Nuremberg with no particular objective, other than enjoying the ambience of a medieval European city, the lovely spring weather, and the contrast of old and new.

I also like the combination of city and nature here.

There is so much to see, that even the reflections in the cathedral windows can have interesting detail.

The lovely spring weather means that there are new leaves and blossoms everywhere. This was especially welcome because at home we are having freezing rain and power outages.

And, of course, I love the contrast between old and new.

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And We’re Off

Two local transit rides, three flights, four airports, and 18 hours after stepping out of our front door, we arrived at our hotel in Nuremberg, slightly the worse for wear. Actually, quite a bit the worse for wear, but whose counting. While Jan unpacked and had a bath, I went out to get pre-paid mobile plans for our trip. It gave me an excuse to check out the city.

By the time I got back, Jan found a lovely local restaurant for an early dinner. We hadn’t eaten since breakfast on the plane, so we though 6:00 pm was a reasonable time to eat. Good thing. The place was fully booked, but Jan talked them into giving us a table as long as we were finished by seven. With jet lag in our bones, we weren’t likely to linger, so it sounded like a deal.

In addition to delicious local dishes, they had Dunkles Hefeweizen, one of my absolutely favourite beers. Though to be fair, I have a lot of “favourite” beers.

Dinner gave us a bit of a second wind, so we went for a walk through the center of the city to get ideas for the weekend. There are a number of market areas that we will be sure to check out tomorrow, but none of them are quite as photogenic as the cathedral.

So that’s what people did with their spare time when they didn’t have Facebook and Twitter…

At dinner, I was telling the bartender how much I love Dunkles Hefeweizen, and how I always look for it whenever I visit Germany. I didn’t think too much of it – I often get enthusiastic about things that I like. But as we were leaving, he pulled me aside and gave me a bottle of this to enjoy later.

As you probably guessed, I’m working my way though it as I write. Something tells me this is going to be a very good trip.

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Two More Days…

Spring is on the way here, but it can’t come soon enough for me.

There aren’t any flowers outside, but the orchids are still blooming inside.

But it doesn’t really matter, because two days from now we will be in the air. More details to follow…

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Last Day in New Zealand

Our first couple of days in New Zealand were cloudy and rainy. Not cyclone level rain, but enough to soak us to the skin and to cloak the Sky Tower in mist. By the time we made it back to Auckland for our final day, the cyclone was long gone and we were treated to clear skies.

We spent the day wandering around the Auckland harbour front and enjoying the warm summer weather (and trying not to think about what was waiting for us at home). I’ve posted a number of pictures highlighting the public art in New Zealand, but today I want to show how it seems to pervade the national consciousness in things large and small. First up, a building decorated in Greco-Roman vases. I have no idea what the point is, but it is really fun to see.

And then, nearby, a building under construction had fencing up to screen the construction site. But instead of plywood plastered with fliers, it had this…

… and then, in a small park, a nod to the earthquakes that are a regular feature of life in New Zealand.

At the entrance to this park, this mosaic in the sidewalk.

Our last full day in New Zealand was my birthday, and we managed to get a table at a fabulous restaurant, on the balcony, overlooking the harbour. They weren’t sure they could give us a table on the balcony, so we mentioned that it was my birthday, so in addition to getting the table we wanted, I got this…

Lovely restaurant. I highly recommend it.

And then, after 24 hours of flying, we were back to this.

The title of this post is our last day in New Zealand. It may have been the last day on this trip, but it will not be our last day there. We will be back.

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Taupo

Today was mostly a travel day as we head back to Auckland for our flight home. Thanks to frequent roadworks along the way, the trip took over five hours, but we still had time for a lovely walk along the lake after we arrived.

Public works of art have been a consistent theme during our visit to New Zealand, and today was no different. They come in many forms, some functional (built into the paths), and others purely for pleasure.

Our hotel was right on the water’s edge, so we were treated to a stunning sunset as we sipped wine on the balcony.

Three days from now we will be in the air, and in four we will be in the snow… 😦

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