Dry Run

After our aborted attempt to take the train to Toledo, we wanted to book our tickets to Porto well in advance, and in person. So first thing this morning (and by “first thing”, I mean 11:30 – we’re on vacation, after all…) we took the Metro to Santa Apolonia train station to book tickets with a real live person. I know that’s old school, but sometimes that’s best. Note the cool cork seats on the Lisbon Metro … and the old fart sitting on them.

Lisbon Metro

Turns out it was a good idea to talk to a living person. The app was ready to sell us tickets, but the live agent simply said “strike”. There is an ongoing rail strike in Lisbon and our train might have run on schedule, it might have been delayed, or it might have been cancelled without explanation or recourse. When we asked what we should do, he simply said “bus”. So it was back to the hotel to consider our next step. But first, it was time for lunch on the street just outside our hotel. It was a pleasant day, and it felt even better when we checked the weather and discovered it was snowing at home.

Be Poet Baixa Hotel

After a little research (thanks Jan) we discovered there were two bus lines that ran hourly buses to Porto, leaving from the Lisbon Oriente station. It was possible to book tickets online but … you can probably see where this is going – after our previous experiences we were reluctant to book anything without talking to a live person. And a dry run to see how long it took to get to the Lisbon Oriente station just seemed like a good idea. So, after lunch, we were off. Along the way, we were treated to some of the lovely art in the stations.

Lisbon Metro
Lisbon Metro

It took a while, but we found the bus station, and eventually we found a ticket booth with a person in it. I’m happy to say that our tickets are booked, and we’re all set, at half the price of the train. Then it was back to our hotel. Lisbon is rather hilly, it turns out. Our hotel is in a relatively flat area, but on either side there are very steep hills. Here is a view of the castle – Castelo de S. Jorge.

Castelo de S. Jorge

And since this was a dry run day, we decided to take a look at the apartment we’re staying at when we come back from Porto. It’s quite close – about half a kilometer. It looked like an easy walk, and it would have been too, but for one small detail. It looked flat on the map, but it certainly wasn’t flat in reality. Our first hint of things to come was a short stairway and buildings rising up to the sky…

Note the innocent looking stairs on the lower left of this picture. But when we got to the top, we discovered …

Stairs in Lisbon

… stairs, and then, more stairs.

And after that, even more stairs.

After several rest stops, we finally made it to the apartment, and then we had to head back down to our hotel, for a rest before dinner. Speaking of dinner, on our travels we came across a small restaurant, just a little off the beaten path, with Portuguese specialities and we decided to have dinner there. We were very pleased with out meals – I opted for the seafood skewer.

Yummy

I’ll close with this thought. You may be thinking this was a wasted day, spent working out travel details. But when we travel, we like to pretend (just a little bit) that we are locals, living our lives in the city. And that is what we did today. Riding the Metro, deciding where to eat, and figuring out how to work around the ongoing strikes. So I thoroughly enjoyed myself.

For tomorrow … who knows.

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Correction

Today we flew from Madrid to Lisbon. The flight is just a little over an hour long, but it still managed to take up a full day. And we were both tired by the time we arrived at our hotel. It’s amazing how exhausting it is to sit on your butt all day … and pleasant to see how much a complementary glass of port when you check in can help.

Yesterday, we rested up after our walk and then headed out for dinner in Plaza Mayor. It had been sunny earlier so we decided we didn’t need to take the umbrella, and we didn’t bother to check the weather first. We won’t make that mistake again. It started to drizzle as we were walking to dinner, and steadily grew colder and rainier as we ate. This is me, enjoying dinner in spite of my shivering.

Dining in the rain

By the time we finished dinner, it was really coming down and we arrived back at the hotel cold and wet. Which made us think of the lovely digestif we’d had at lunch earlier in the week. We figured it was exactly what we needed to warm us from the inside. And this is where the title for this blog post comes from. Earlier I said the drink was called Orujo, but after discussing with the bartender, we realized that was wrong. Fortunately we were able to figure out the correct name.

Not Orujo, but definitely yummy

We ordered a drink and by the end of it we were feeling warm and fuzzy.

The weather in Lisbon tonight was a lot nicer, and we were much warmer during out dinner outside.

Dinner in Lisbon

After dinner we took a stroll along the streets around our hotel to get a feel for the city. It was just a taste, but we liked what we saw and we’re looking forward to exploring a lot more tomorrow.

Lisbon
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Madrid Flea Market

Technology is wonderful … except when it isn’t. We had been thinking of taking the train to Toledo today and decided to book tickets online. I downloaded the app, created an account, and then tried to book our tickets. What could go wrong? Turns out, everything. First the last seats on the train disappeared between the time I selected the train and completing the transaction. We opted for a later train, but then my credit card needed to send a code to my mobile to verify the purchase. The code went to my Canadian number, of course, so I needed to activate that number again, and then the transaction was denied anyway. Twice. We decided it was a sign, and that is how we ended up at the Madrid Flea Market today. Apparently it is one of the top things to do in Madrid, so it all worked out in the end.

Madrid Flea Market

We waited till after lunch because we enjoy a slow start to the day, and because we hoped the crowds might be thinning out by then. Nope. Fortunately Jan wore her pink jacket to make it easier to spot her in the crowd.

Jan at the Flea Market

It was a good thing she did, because it was all too easy to lose sight of her in the crowds. Can you spot her pink jacket in this next photo? It’s there … look closely.

Where’s Jan?

I’m not sure if this next item was for sale, but it was an interesting touch.

We bought a few souvenirs and then headed to lunch. Getting a table indoors turned out to be a challenge on a busy Sunday, so we ate outside, even though it was quite chilly today. After lunch we went for another walk in the park, where I couldn’t help taking more pictures of the plants.

Olives on the olive trees
Magnolia fruit

Notice how the underside of the Magnolia leaves are brown and furry.

Magnolia

This next one is a Persian Silk Tree, which still has a few blossoms.

Persian Silk Tree

We then walked around the large pond in the park, with many people enjoying a boat ride on a pleasant Sunday. We took a selfie to prove we were there.

As we headed back to our hotel, we spotted cats on a hot tin roof, so we had to take a picture.

Tomorrow we fly to Lisbon.

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No Particular Place To Go

We decided it was time to take it easy for a day.

I was going to say we wanted to have a quiet day, but given the many people on the streets of Madrid, it wouldn’t be quite right to call it quiet. But we enjoyed ourselves, just walking around the city.

Monument to Miguel de Cervantes
Selfie in front of the Templo de Debod

That’s all for today.

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Madrid – Day 3

Today was a museum day, and because we have very different tastes in museums, we decided to split up. But when we mapped out our routes, we discovered we were heading to the same general area, so we walked together. Along the way we passed the Palacio de Buenavista.

There was a large crowd on the sidewalk and we could hear a marching band. We briefly thought it was another protest, but it appears it was a military ceremony – perhaps a changing of the guard – it wasn’t clear. We didn’t stop to watch because we couldn’t see that much through the crowd, but a little further along we could see other ceremonial troops getting ready for action. I love the optical zoom on my iPhone…

Ceremonial Troops

Jan went to an art museum and I went to the Archeological Museum. I love Roman history, but this time I decided to learn more about the time before Roman Spain. I take my time in museums, so I only managed to get as far as the Phoenician trade with Spain, where I discovered that the rich families (oligarchs) controlled the trade routes to ensure that they got richer while everyone else … didn’t. I can’t decide if the fact that some things never change is reassuring or depressing. Probably a bit of each, I suppose.

When it was time for a late lunch we found a restaurant a little off the beaten path. We had another local salad, with wine, of course. As we were finishing, the server brought us complementary Orujo, a Spanish digestif similar to Marc or Grappa (but much better, Jan adds). It was a lovely end to the meal.

Orujo

We headed back to the hotel to freshen up, and then I went for another walk to a large park that I’d spotted earlier. On our way to the museums we had passed two grand pianos on the sidewalk, with different people playing a song or two, and then getting up for someone else to have a go. On the way to the park, I passed two more.

Madrid se Ilena de pianos – 25 October 2024

After pausing to listen to the street piano music, I continued on to the park. It is huge. Here are a few photos to give you a sense of it.

El Retiro Park
Sun setting through trees
Roman column
More cool trees

A lot of the park was paths through trees, but there were also fountains and a large pond, where you can rent boats.

Fountain
Boats on the pond in El Retiro park
Mallard ducks on the pond

Later, we headed out for tapas, which was a perfect end to the day.

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Madrid – Day 2

We woke up this morning feeling … tired. Sadly, jet lag doesn’t get easier with practice – it just gets harder with age. We weren’t sure what we wanted to do, but we knew it couldn’t be anything too taxing. After a bit of discussion/negotiation/delegation we came up with a rough plan for the day. First stop was the Atocha train station, because of its beautiful architecture and the fact we are considering a side trip to Toledo.

Atocha Train Station

And then, we headed back to the Botanical Gardens because, lovely as Madrid is, the noise and bustle was wearing on our jet lagged bodies. Late October isn’t exactly peak season for plants in Madrid, but we were treated to an amazing array of colour. I’m going to apologize up front for the number of photos, but they were so beautiful that I couldn’t resist. Just be thankful it wasn’t peak season…

Plantain

I’ll begin with what I think is a plantain flower. At the top of the long stalk there was a small cluster of plantains. I assume that earlier in the season there had been many more plantains, all along the long straight stalk. It looks otherworldly, like something out of Invasion of the Body Snatchers.

Twisted Evergreen Tree

I love this picture because it makes me wonder exactly why the tree follow this tortured path to the sky. I don’t have answers, so I’ll leave it to you to ponder.

Mandarin Oranges

This tree was loaded with fruit. We live in a much colder climate, so all I can say is “it isn’t fair”.

Pond with Duck Weed

Next up, a series of plants that are still flowering near the end of October. I love the range of colours.

And finally, there was a surprising amount of new growth.

One of the buildings was hosting an art exhibit, and on a whim we decided to have a look. Good plan. It had an amazing collection of pencil and pen drawings with incredible detail. To give you an idea of the scale of the drawings, this picture was at least 6 feet (2 meters) high.

Olive Tree

The gardens have plants from a wide range of climates. This is one from the small, but impressive, collection of succulents.

As we were getting ready to leave, Jan spotted the Bonsai collection. It was amazing, with 61 plants, ranging from 50 to 100 years old, and none more than a meter high.

One of the things that amazed me was that even though the trees were very small, several had full sized fruit.

Bonsai Strawberry Tree

The shape of the Bonsai trees was amazing, with many contorted like this one.

Bonsai Tree

It’s hard to judge the scale in this picture, but if you pull back just a bit you can see the pot that holds the tree.

By the time we finished in the gardens we were refreshed, and ready for a late lunch. Of course, we enjoyed local produce and local wine.

Lunch – Salad and Wine

We did manage to see some of the architecture of Madrid as well.

Royal Palace of Madrid

Tomorrow will likely be a visit to a museum.

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Madrid

Yesterday was a travel day. Even when flying within Europe, travel seems to eat up the entire day, and that was the case here. Flying through Frankfurt is always a bit of an “adventure” but everything went smoothly and we arrived in Madrid right on time.

Today we took it easy with a late start and a quiet morning walking in the neighborhood around our hotel.

Plaza Mayor in Madrid
Apartments

After a late lunch (delicious and very reasonably priced) we took the Hop-on-Hop-off bus tour around historic Madrid, just to get a feel for things. After taking the full route, we got off at the Botanical Gardens. It’s late fall, so there wasn’t that much to see, but it was still lovely and the quiet was just what we needed after the noise and bustle of the city.

Artichokes, gone to seed
Lantana flowers
Lantana

We’re having a little down time now, and later we’ll head out for tapas and cava.

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The Vikings

For our last day in Stockholm (for this year) we went to the Viking Museum. We learned that pretty much everything we hear about the Vikings in popular culture is wrong. Horned helmets? Not a chance. Two handed swords were almost never used because a wooden shield and axe were far cheaper and more effective for raids (the bit about pillaging is true). They weren’t even called Vikings until much later. The word Viking can be a noun, meaning someone who lives near the water or as a verb, meaning to go on an expedition. I’d definitely recommend a visit.

I mentioned the Stockholm metro system on an earlier post, and today we tried out another part of the system – commuter ferries between the islands that make up Stockholm. It is a great way to see another aspect of the city.

View from the ferry in Stockholm

Then we walked through the old town in Gamla Stan. It is very touristy, but also very pleasant.

Viking Restaurant and Bar
Gamla Stan, Stockholm

Then we walked back to our hotel after the sun set.

Then it was off to dinner at a Ramen restaurant. A lovely way to end this visit.

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Random Thoughts (in Stockholm)

We took it easy today, with a late start and a pleasant walk to the Moderna Museet – the museum of modern art. Along the way we passed the building where Stockholm syndrome originated.

Stockholm syndrome

Fun fact – banks in Sweden don’t look the way North Americans expect banks to look. In Sweden, banks look just like any other store. So if Ian hadn’t pointed it out, we never would have guessed this was, and perhaps still is, a bank.

Tree Roots

When we left the museum shortly before 6:00 PM, the sun had already set, but it was still a pleasant walk back to our hotel.

Tomorrow will be our last full day in Stockholm.

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Geek Central

The main reason for visiting Stockholm in October was to see Ian, so we’ve been spending a lot of time walking around the city with him. It’s cool out, but mostly sunny and very pleasant.

Stockholm

Here is an interesting bit of modern art … in a manner of speaking. When a dead tree was cut down, the stump was carved into the shape of … a tree.

Chainsaw Art

Stockholm has an excellent subway system, which makes it very easy to get around the city. It was Saturday afternoon, so it wasn’t busy at all.

Stockholm Subway

Ian showed us around his work.

We stopped by the grocery store for snacks and the liquor store for wine and beer, and then for the rest of the afternoon Jan read a book and enjoyed the view, while Ian and I played a tabletop game (Bolt Action) with model armies.

The view from work
Battle Field Layout
Mayhem

We played to a draw. It isn’t for everyone, but we had an enjoyable afternoon working on strategy, sampling the local beer, and visiting. It was fun.

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